Far from the tattoo trails of Buscalan, a richer portrait of Kalinga unfolds in sacred rituals, heirloom recipes, and the coldness of mountain villages.

Despite years spent crisscrossing the Philippine archipelago, a few places have continued to elude me. Chief among them: the mountain village of Buscalan in Kalinga, home to Apo Whang-Od, centenarian, cultural icon, and said to be the oldest traditional mambabatok (Kalinga traditional artist) of her generation. Using a thorn, soot, and indigenous ink, she etches ancestral symbols into skin, each mark a living archive of identity and cultural symbol.

Sunrise over the mountains of Lubuagan, Kalinga is a great reason to wake up early

For many Filipino travelers and weekend warriors, the usual stops in Quezon province tend to circle around the well-worn routes of Lucena, Tayabas, Lucban, and Gumaca, places already familiar to motorists en route to Batangas or Bicol.

Top view of Balagbag Falls in Real, Quezon

Having climbed my fair share of mountains during my college days, I knew well enough that when a guide says, “Just 10 more minutes,” what they really mean is that a good hour or more separates you from the summit. By the time I reached the boulder face of Mount Apo, I was already battling a sea of massive stones. These boulders, remnants of an undocumented ancient eruption, lay scattered like imposing obstacles one has to hurdle with both hands and feet, and an impressive balancing act, before reaching the peak.

A clearing and a sea of clouds

They say the third time’s the charm. But in Batanes, the northernmost province of the Philippines, each of my three visits has carried its own distinct magic. My first trip, over a decade ago, involved pedaling halfway across Batan Island on a rented bicycle. It happened to coincide with a town fiesta, and my friends and I were warmly welcomed into local homes, where we feasted on traditional Ivatan dishes and experienced generous hospitality.

Postcard-images at every turn of the head

Most festivals in the Philippines zero in on street revelry, and why not? Who wouldn’t want to strut to the sadsad steps of the Ati-Atihan while shouting “Hala Bira!” through the sweltering streets of Kalibo, Aklan? Or stomp to the thunderous drumbeats of Iloilo City’s Dinagyang, where every rhythm pounds the ground like a heartbeat? Both celebrations, this writer’s two most favorite festivals in the Philippines, light up Panay Island with an energy that’s hard to resist.

Davao del Sur was one of the first provinces in Mindanao I visited. In 2009, I flew to Davao City with my then-girlfriend, Marianne. From there, we made our way to Camp Sabros, an outdoor retreat in Kapatagan, Digos City, known at the time for having one of the longest zip lines in the country, an 800-meter ride above the treetops.

Posing with members of the Bagobo-Tagabawa community in Sta Cruz, Davao del Sur

Often mentioned last when one converses about the Bicol region, the province of Catanduanes revealed itself with such unexpected surprise that it swiftly secured a place among my top five favorite provinces in the Philippines. Its unassuming surf culture, endless rolling hills unfolding into sweeping Pacific Ocean views, and surreal rock formations create a landscape both rugged and breathtaking. Mornings reveal scenic peaks wrapped in a sea of clouds, while waterfalls, hidden lagoons, and a winding coastline of powdery white sand complete the island’s charm.

Come for the scenery, go home happy

Seated on a mat laid over the cool sprawl of lawn of MiraNila, a heritage house and events place in Quezon City which now holds outdoor film showings and a house tour as part of its offerings, I stretched my legs, letting my sock-covered toes press into the softness of the earth. Overhead, the night shifted in slow, deliberate movements, with the nighttime skies parting just enough to unveil a waxing crescent moon. On the huge screen set up on MiraNila’s spacious front yard, Greta Lee’s Nora leads Teo Yoo’s Hae Sung through the bustling streets of New York City in Past Lives—a film driven by the weight of life’s what-ifs.

Facade of MiraNila

Beyond its big city vibe and bustling shopping and marketplaces, it hides a wealth of nature spots and soulful activities.

Growing up in an era a couple of decades away from the advent of low-budget airlines, I saw our rich neighbors jet off to Hong Kong for shopping trips. At the start of every school year, I would listen to a couple of classmates telling stories of high-rise buildings and the video games they brought home. Since then, I have come to associate the place as where the affluent Filipinos go for holidays.

At just one of the many scenic vantage spots atop Biu Tsim Kok

When I first started traveling around Southeast Asia, I encountered travelers who had explored tri-cities or even provinces. This was because countries such as Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia, Indonesia, Malaysia, and even Laos have established tourism circuits that not only attract travelers to stay in one place but also encourage them to explore nearby regions.

The rich culture of provinces in Region 3 were highlighted during the 3-day Philippine Experience Tour

When I first began traveling, I was drawn to the sheer visual spectacle of a destination—the more picturesque, the better. I believed that dramatic landscapes alone could capture the spirit of my journey, with each frame giving me a postcard-worthy memento. But as I pursued the craft of travel writing more seriously, my perspective evolved. I came to realize that a place is more than its scenery; I discovered that a great deal of a destination’s soul rests in the stories of its people. By putting more focus on the locals, I witnessed how their traditions, heritage, and daily rhythms weave a richer narrative, thus transforming every visit into a deeper, more meaningful experience that lingers long after I leave.

The "Binanog" is a courtship dance of the Panay-Bukidnon that imitates the movements of a hawk.