The idea of walking over the pretty pink sands of Sta. Cruz Island in Zamboanga City had me LSS-ing on a classic Psychedelic Furs song and recounting a young Molly Ringwald. After a couple of cancelled Zamboanga trips in the past, I finally found myself blissfully seated on a small boat heading to the island of Sta. Cruz—otherwise known as “The Pink Island.” With my eyes staring ahead at the spread-out patches of glistening shoreline, I was quickly arrested by the enveloping hues of green flora in the not-so-distant background. Wide-eyed with wonder, everything felt so right that even the engine's revving sounded as if it were a custom soundtrack to a must-watch travel film.
Sta. Cruz Island, Zamboanga: More Than Just the Pink Sands
It Only Takes a Zephyr
Getting to Sta. Cruz Island is just a breeze because it is situated a mere twenty minutes away by boat from the port near Paseo Del Mar in Zamboanga City. Visits to this island are closely regulated to control the influx of tourists and safeguard the natural prettiness of the area. Island junkies can enjoy this blushing beach starting in the morning up to 4:00 PM in the afternoon only. To maximize your visit, I suggest booking through ITravel TouristLane to facilitate your Sta. Cruz Island incursion.
A Traditional Pangalay Performance from the Sama-Bangingi
After docking at the island, we learned that our trip coincided with the month-long Summer Fiesta. Throughout the month, a group of performers belonging to the island’s Sama-Bangingi community perform a traditional Pangalay dance to the lively beat of a kulintangan ensemble to greet visitors.
A sub-group of the larger Sama people, the Bangingi live in the islands located across the Sulu Archipelago. As decades went by, this ethno-linguistic group scattered throughout the western and southern coasts of the Zamboanga Peninsula, with a few of them settling permanently on the island of Sta. Cruz.
Pangalay is a traditional dance of the Tausug people of Sulu. This style of dance commands skillful flexibility of the wrists, shoulders, and elbows as part of its core movements, culminating in a showy routine where the dancer exhibits long, metallic fingernails in an impressive display of choreography.
The kulintangan song is a prevalent traditional music form across the Eastern Malay Archipelago, which includes the Southern Philippines. A vital part of the gong-chime culture of Southeast Asia, this type of music is played through a set of brass kettle gongs producing a lively, rhythmic beat perfectly matched to the movements of the Pangalay.
Chupa-Kulo, Oko-Oko and Seafood Feast
Apart from giant crabs and a wide variety of fresh seafood dishes, I was also able to try out local specialties for the first time: chupa-kulo and oko-oko.
Oko-oko is typically rice cooked directly inside a sea urchin shell. This is how the Sama Bangingi people traditionally prepare this staple food.
Chupa-kulo are snails simmered in rich coconut milk and served with squash. It delivers a milky and rich texture, though it demands a bit of extra effort for sucking the meat out.
Parade of the Colorful Vintas
No trip to Zamboanga is complete without laying eyes on its iconic vintas. These traditional sailboats of the Badjao, Sama, and Tausug peoples carry along their colorful sails—embodying the rich history and vibrant culture of the Muslim community.
Seeing several vintas glide gracefully over the clear waters of Sta. Cruz Island provided us with another visual spectacle as the brilliant colors shone against the morning sun and gleaming sands, dancing to the beat of the kulintangan tune.
The Other Side: The Mangroves
PAMU (Protected Area Management Unit) Head Richard Aliangan guided us to the other side of Sta. Cruz Island, where the heart of the area's biodiversity hides a lush mangrove forest and a tranquil lagoon serving as a haven for innumerable stingless jellyfish.
With a flair for hilarious storytelling, Sir Aliangan imparted to us some knowledge about the different species of mangrove trees, citing that they even possess male and female genders. The male mangrove tree forms leaves or flowers with sagging fringes, while the female mangrove tree produces flowers with tinier spikes.
The highlight of our early afternoon was when Aliangan taught us how to properly touch and gently pick up a stingless jellyfish. I carefully picked one up to experience the sensation in my hands. It felt remarkably softer and smoother than a lady’s breast, and after a few seconds, I gently returned it back to the water, watching it slowly slide back underneath to join the others.
Is It Really Pink?
At first glance, the sands of Sta. Cruz appear like any archetypal tropical beach in the Philippines. Upon closer examination, however, you will notice a heavy concentration of distinct pink-colored granules.
It is said that the sand appears pinker during the early morning when the sun is rising, or late in the afternoon when the warm glow of the setting sun makes the pink particles shine brighter. During the harsh mid-morning sun, it doesn't seem quite as pink at first glance.
What makes the sand pink? The presence of crushed red organ-pipe coral—scientifically known as Tubipora musica—mixed with the fine white sands has resulted in the island's unique pink coloration.
All in a Day’s Dip
As I took a dip into the clear waters of the island, I marveled at my surroundings—from the lush tree line to the famed pink sands—almost forgetting the presence of a few marines stationed nearby to maintain order. With the security of the Zamboanga Peninsula vastly improving in recent years—even before and during the infamous Zamboanga siege a few years back—Sta. Cruz Island has remained safe and deeply welcoming to visitors. Today, this island stands proud as a model for every nature and biodiversity protected area, and a shining example of how a local government unit empowers the community in helping safeguard the natural beauty of their home.
"Caroline laughs, and it's raining all day, loves to be one of the girls. She lives in the place in the side of our lives, where nothing is ever put straight. Pretty in pink, isn't she?" I hummed the Psychedelic Furs song in my head as I imagined a young Molly Ringwald and relived the softness of the stingless jellyfish in my hand.
